Cashmere

The number of goats farmed in New Zealand dropped very substantially from a peak of approximately 1,300,000 in 1988 to much less than 200,000 animals currently.  New Zealand's contribution to the international cashmere trade is marginal.  Since the fibre in NZ has to be shorn (as opposed to being combed out in China and Outer Mongolia), it contains a great deal of guard hair which makes it less desirable, and this combined with low yields, relatively higher fibre diameter, and goat losses post-shearing, have all helped to minimise the local trade.  There is therefore very little cashmere testing carried out in NZ.

However, SGS worldwide plays a significant role in the cashmere trade, especially in detecting substitution and certifying fibre composition.  SGS Cashmere laboratories are located in Shanghai, Hong Kong and Bradford, and all operate under a quality assurance programme administered by the Bradford laboratory.  SGS is accredited by the cashmere and Camel Hair Institute (CCMI) to carry out blend analyses.

SGS has invested significantly in this area, with the installation of a scanning electron microscope in Bradford, the assembly of a traceable fibre library in which the fleeces from identifiable speciality animals selected from around the world are stored for reference purposes, and the design and implementation of an international fibre identification training and QC programme.

Further information can be found in the SGS Cashmere Labs brochure